Day Gecko Care

by Greg Christenson

Reprinted from Ark'Type, the Newsmagazine for the Westcoast Society for the Protection and Conservation of Reptiles, May, 1998.
Reprinted in the Cold Blooded News, Vol.25, No.7, July, 1998.

Day geckos of the genus Phelsuma are different from other geckos for several reasons. Unlike most other geckos, day geckos are diurnal (active during the day), hence their name. They are also very territorial and they are very colorful. Phelsuma have some fairly stringent care requirements, and beginning Day Gecko keepers should start with some of the easier to care for species, such as Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis (Giant day gecko), Phelsuma laticauda (Gold Dust day gecko), and Phelsuma lineata (Lined day gecko). Even though most day gecko species nave many common needs, there are also many different care requirements between species.

Housing:
Most day geckos require a vertically oriented enclosure with many tall plants and bamboo to climb on. Smaller species should be housed in a minimum of a 10 gallon enclosure for a pair of day geckos. The larger species should be housed in 20 gallon or larger enclosures for pairs of day geckos. Individual animals and juveniles can be kept in smaller enclosures. It is also important to provide proper ventilation in the enclosure while keeping proper humidity. Unlike most other day geckos, Phelsuma barbouri requires a horizontally oriented enclosure.

Decorations / Substrate:
Bottom substrate should be made up of a layer of tiny pebbles at least 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) thick for drainage, followed by a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) layer of peat moss or Styrolite-free potting soil. Fine grade well-washed orchid bark may also be used as a top level substrate. Enclosures should be well planted with stiff-leafed plants such as Sansevieria (Snake plant), orchids, bromeliads, and other tropical plants. Both vertical and semi-horizontal bamboo stalks should be provided for climbing and basking. The semi-horizontal bamboo pieces should be placed near the fluorescent and incandescent lights for basking. Cork bark makes an excellent wall covering, and also provides attachment points for epiphyte plants. It is also important to provide plenty of hiding places for day geckos, which will help to reduce stress.

Lighting:
Adequate lighting is required for the day geckos and plants in the enclosure. Several full-spectrum fluorescent lights should be placed at the top of the enclosure. Vitalights or other reptile fluorescent lights that produce small amounts of UVA and UVB light may be used. Screen is recommended under the fluorescent bulbs because most types of plastic and glass block a large percent of UV light. A small low-wattage (20 to 60 watt) incandescent or halogen basking light should also be provided on one side of the enclosure over specific basking areas so that the gecko can pick its preferred temperature. Lighting should be controlled by a timer and varied seasonally from 14 hours per day during the summer to 10 hours per day during the winter, along with a small temperature drop for three or four months in winter.

Food:
The main staple of a day gecko's diet is insects, which include crickets, waxworms, waxmoths, wingless fruitflies, and flies. Most day geckos also eat fruits, including papaya, mango, and fruit baby food. Phosphorus-free calcium and vitamin supplements are very important in a day gecko's diet, and should be provided at every other feeding.

Breeding:
Breeding season is determined by temperature and photoperiod, if the proper climate and diet are provided. As lighting hours and temperatures increase in Spring, females should be provided additional food and supplements. Day geckos are either gluers or non-gluers. Non-gluers lay two or one calcareous hard-shelled eggs in a protected location, such as a leaf joint or open bamboo section. Gluers attach the egg or eggs to leaves or other hard surfaces, and [the eggs] are easily broken if an attempt is made to remove them. The eggs of gluers must be incubated in place unless the object to which they are attached can be moved to an incubator. Most fertile eggs can be incubated at a temperature of 82°Fahrenheit (28°C) with small variations in temperature, and will hatch in 38 to 90 days, depending on the species. Eggs can be hatched in an incubator by placing them on a small plastic lid placed on top of a bed of slightly moistened vermiculite (1:1 ratio of vermiculite to water by weight).

Recommended reading for specific species information:
Sean McKeown, 1993. The General Care and Maintenance of Day Geckos.
Henkel/Schmidt, 1995. Geckoes (English version).
Tim Tytle, 1989. The Captive Maintenance and Propagation of Day Geckos, The Vivarium, 2-5.
Eric. M. Rundquist, 1994. Day Geckos. Sean McKeown, 1996. Successfully Keeping the Smaller Day Geckos, Reptiles, 4-9.
Sean McKeown, 1996. Breeding the Smaller Day Geckos, Reptiles, 4-10
Reid Taylor, 1995. Keeping and Breeding the Larger Day Geckos, Reptiles, 3-4.