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Long Island Herpetological Society, Inc. 476 North Ontario Avenue Lindenhurst, New York 11757 (516) 884-LIHS HERP CARE SHEET - BULLETIN # 7 BALL PYTHONS (Python regius) Ball pythons often serve as an introductory python. They are readily available, grow to a good size without being overwhelming, and generally have good dispositions. This is the upside to ball pythons. The downside is they arrive in this country in two conditions; great shape or horrible shape. They can also be problematic feeders. Fortunately, the ball python is now being bred in captivity offering potential snake keepers a shot at a healthy, less stressed and less parasitized animal. Always buy a juvenile snake. Captive bred is always preferred. They will make for a more docile pet. Adult ball pythons, especially those which have been collected from the wild are notorious for being finicky eaters. Avoid these animals! Until recently there was simply the standard ball python. Breeders have come up with various colors and pattern variations (morphs) through selective breeding. There are "albinos", jungle morphs, piebald and striped ball pythons. Naturally, these animals are not common, but they are available for a price. NATIVE HABITAT: Western and Central Africa. They are semi-arboreal (tree dwelling), but are more often than not found on the ground in burrows or dens of small mammals. They are finally being bred in numbers in captivity. SIZE: 3 - 6 feet. Average size is 4 feet. Ball pythons have a small head, with a long, thick body, and a short stubby tail. HOUSING: A thirty gallon aquarium (36"x 12"x 12" ) or a cage of equal size (i.e., Neodesha ABS plastic cage or melamine cage) is adequate for a full grown ball python. The cage must have a tight fitting secure cover. Screen covers are best secured with "cage clips." Newspaper is a good bottom covering (Black & white print only -- colored pages may have toxic inks) as is astroturf. It is generally best to avoid pine shavings, corn cob bits and gravel. These substrates may be ingested by the snake. A large bowl of fresh water should always be provided. Not only is water used for drinking, but as an aid during shedding. Ball Pythons require a fairly humid environment to do well. Hide boxes must be provided to give the snake some privacy. A hide box may be bought at a local pet shop or you can make one out of a cardboard box. Snakes that do not have access to a hide box will often "stress out". A tree branch for climbing is generally appreciated by the snake. TEMPERATURE & LIGHTING: 80° - 88° F is an ambient temperature for ball pythons. A slight drop at night of 5° -10° F is quite acceptable (simulating night time temperature drops). A thermometer should always be present so that you can monitor the air temperature. Heat ~ optimal air temperature may be provided normal room temperature, or supplemented through external means. Heat Rocks, Heat Pads, Heat Tape, Incandescent lights and Ceramic Heat Emitters are all commonly used methods of raising the temperature in the cage. Heat Rocks and Heat Pads often have preset temperatures that raise the air temperature in the cage 10° - 20° F. Some of the newer models have rheostats so that you can control the temperature. Heat tape requires that a rheostat be placed in line. Incandescent lighting may also be used to raise the temperature, but you risk thermal burns to the snake if it comes in contact with the hot bulb. If the light is used for heating a red bulb will be required. You simply cannot leave a regular light on for 24 hours straight without stressing the animal. Red light supposedly is not seen by the animal. Ceramic Heat Emitters only radiate heat waves, so they may be left on 24 hours if need be. Remember, like incandescent bulbs, unless they are placed externally, they may cause burns. Always provide a "hot" area and a "cooler" area for the snake so that it may regulate its body temperature. No special lighting required. Fluorescent bulbs are more cost effective and run cooler than incandescent bulbs, and you eliminate the possibility of thermal burns. Light should be on 10 - 12 hours daily. FEEDING: Ball pythons will feed on mice and small rats. Adult wild-collected ball pythons can be finicky eaters. To get these animals started as well as finicky juveniles you may have to resort to gerbils. Often a ball python that refused a mouse or rat will accept a gerbil or a mouse/rat scented with a gerbil. This may be done by rubbing the mouse/rat with a frozen gerbil (you can retain this gerbil for continual use). Known as "SCENTING". It is preferable that you get your snake eating freshly killed or thawed frozen mice or rats. You'll never have to worry about your snake getting bit by a dead mouse/rat. If you do feed live animals to your snake, make sure it eats it before you leave the room. HANDLING: Juvenile and captive bred specimens are always the easiest snake to handle. Work with these snakes so that they become accustomed to your touch and smell. Do not handle these snakes immediately after they have eaten, after you have handled mice or rats, and when they are shedding. PURCHASING: Always try to buy a captive bred animal. Handle the animal before buying it. It should move freely and easily. There should not be any scars, cuts or bumps. The eyes should be clear and bright. Do not buy a snake that is shedding. There should not be any mucus or bubbles from the mouth or nasal areas. Check for mites and ticks, especially on wild-collected snakes. If you have additional questions about ball pythons try to attend one of the LIHS monthly meetings. You can write or call the LIHS at the address/phone number at the top of this sheet. Reading about your snake before buying it is always beneficial. SUGGESTED READINGS:
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Ball Python
